On the southern end, at Lago Argentina (map, #3), one of the most popular activities is ice-trekking. You don't need to be an extreme sports enthusiast to enjoy this, but you should be fit enough to handle the techniques of walking and climbing on ice, sometimes very steep ice, with crampons. You'll get the equipment you need from your tour agency or guide. This is something you should plan to do. It's an experience you'll never forget.
You can choose a mini-trek if you prefer, which is restricted to a small, safe portion of the glacier. If you prefer a little distance from your experience with the ice, you can use the walkway less than 1000 ft (300 m) from the snout. You might see a section of ice veer off with a huge splash. Watch for the tidal wave; before the walkway was built, people used to get very near the shore and were caught and killed by the wave.
Horseback rides will take you around Lago Argentina, through the deep green forests for great views of the glaciers, meadows, lakes and rivers. You don't need to be an expert rider, as the horses are tame and the saddles are wide and comfortably padded with sheepskin. You'll also travel by bus and by boat, and by 4X4. Mountain bikers have many trails to choose from.
You can also visit a sheep estancia, some of which are now open to overnight stays. These aren't inexpensive, but they do include a meal and the experience of being part of a working ranch.
On the northern end, at Lago Viedma, (map, #4), the activity centers around the lake, Upsala glacier and the mountains. Upsala is reached only by boat, and you may choose to take a catamaran from Punto Bandera across the lake to the observation points on Canal Upsala. The boat will let you off here to follow a trail to Lago Onelli for a look at Onelli, Bolado and Agassiz glaciers there. You'll see many icebergs floating in the lake.
Climbers, camnpers and trekkers congregate in the town of El Chaltén. Developed in the 1980's to serve their needs, El Chaltén is a base point for climbing, hiking or strolling. Be prepared for incessant wind. Cerro Torre is notorious for bad weather and it's not uncommon to see people waiting weeks or longer for good climbing conditions. Easier to reach in any weather is the Chorillo del Salto waterfall where you can see Cerro FitzRoy and Cerro Poincenot 7376 ft (3002 m). Other trails lead to Laguna Torre and the base camp for climbing Cerro Torre, to Laguna Capri and on to Río Blanco, the base camp for FitzRoy and then to Laguna de los Tres, named for three members of a French expedition.
Cerros FitzRoy and Torre are not for the inexperienced climbers.
Side Trips:
Go to Punta Walichu Caves to see the pictures of people, animals and handprints made by long-ago Indian tribes. Perito Moreno found the caves, and a mummy, in 1877. You can take a 4X4 part of the way, then walk or ride a horse to the caves.
Laguna del Desierto, or Desert Lake, is somewhat of a misnomer, since it is surrounded by forest. It is a nice trip north of El Chaltén.
When to Go and What to Pack:
You can go any time of year, but October to April is high season. Be prepared for crowds and make your reservations and travel arrangements in advance. Spring is a good time to go. The weather is warming, the flora is blooming and there aren't that many tourists yet. Any time of year, you'll experience wind, so you'll need warm clothing. No need to dress for an Artic expedition, but you will need a windproof jacket, hat, gloves, sturdy hiking boots.
You will need a lot of film for your camera! Use polarizing and UV filters for the glaciers.
If you plan to camp, you'll need your camping gear of sleeping bag, portable stove and cooking fuel. Take plenty of water. If you plan to use a shelter, a refugio, you'll need only your sleeping bag.
Take a backpack with you for your incidentals and make sure you have water and snacks. High energy ones are good. You'll find lots of food stores and restaurants, but be prepared for the cost. Everything has to be brought in from miles away.
