From Bonnie Hamre,
Your Guide to South America Travel.
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September brings spring to Chile, and with it the days of celebration of Chile's independence from Spain. For days before and after September 18, the Dieciocho, the country celebrates with parades, festivities, food, music and beverages. Much of the drinking, music and dancing occurs in the ramadas, open air "buildings" with a dance floor under a thatched roof, or one made traditionally with branches, as in traditional shelters. Refreshment stands, fondas, offer a variety of national food favorites.

From the northern deserts to the southern tip of Chile, Chileans party in remembrance of the day in 1810 that the Chilean criollo leaders proclaimed limited self-government during the Napoleonic Wars on the Iberian Peninsula. Actual independence came in April 1818, but the Dieciocho is a treasured celebration. The scents of asados, or open pit barbecues, empanadas baking, and other favorite national dishes fill the air. Music, particularly the patriotic sounds of the national anthem and other favorites, is everywhere. Cueca competitions are a ritual, as much as the dance itself. (photo and description)

Wine, and chicha flow. Medialunas, the semi-circular arenas used in the rodeos, fill with spectators cheering the huasos who demonstrate their skill. Enjoy these photos taken at the Tehuelche Rodeo in Magallanes. Folkloric demonstrations of dance, costume and legends bring in the crowds.

One constant theme is the recognition and celebration of Chilenidad. Depending where you are in Chile, in addition to all the above, you can also enjoy one or more of these regional highlights:

• In Tarapaca, the Independence celebrations last all month with religious ceremonies, theatrical productions, and children's activities
• In Antofagasta, kite flying competitions fill the clearing skies
• In Atacama, 300 cuecas in the Copiapó's Plaza de Armas, cueca competitions and many rodeos
• In Coquimbo, hundreds of children dancing the cueca, kite flying competitions and religious ceremonies and the traditional Pampilla de Coquimbo
• In and around Santiago, Semana Criolla which includes a rodeo, arts and crafts, food and drink, folklore presentations and children's activities
• In Rancagua, site of the 1814 Battle of Rancagua against the Spanish forces in which Bernardo O'Higgins was defeated and subsequently took refuge with his men in the Cuevas de los Patriotas on the Juan Fernandez Archipelago, the exuberant celebrations include the National Rodeo Championships, much music, dance and song
• In Maule, folkloric presentations, traditional Creole games, known as Juegos Tradicionales and equestrian events mark the Dieciochocelebrations
• In BíoBío, the Fiesta de la Chilenidad includes dance and cooking competitions, Juegos Tradicionales, music and folkloric presentations
• In La Araucanía, the Semana del Folclor is a week-long celebration of regional and national folkloric traditions, cooking demonstrations, music, history, ethnicity and everything that comprises Chilenidad
• In Aysén, cooking demonstrations, national cuisine, dances, and sports events.

September 19 is Armed Forces Day, with military and naval presentations celebrating the victories over the Spanish forces, led in part by the national hero, Bernardo O'Higgins, Libertador de Chile with assistance from José de San Martín

Amongst all the celebratory events, September also has some dates that may provoke protests or demonstrations. These are the election of Salvador Allende (9/4/1970), Augusto Pinochet's coup (9/11/1970) and Armed Forces day itself, in which many protest the role of the military during the Pinochet years. Customary caution is recommended.

No matter where you are in Chile during the September Independence Celebrations, you'll hear Viva Chile! Enjoy the festivities, music, food and dance, and have a great time!

Viva Chile!