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Inca Trail Day Three and Four

By Bonnie Hamre, About.com

Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu

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Camping for the night can be do-it-yourself, or you can take a fully supported tour with pre-selected campsites and a camp staff that sets up and clears camp as well as doing all the cooking. Either way, if you awaken early enough to see the dawn, and the morning is clear, you'll have great views of the Cordillera Vilcabamba. You'll also allow yourself enough time for sightseeing later in the day.

Next stop on the trail are the ruins at Puyopatamarca, or Cloud Level Town, where water runs through carved stone channels down a long series of steps. When I was there, the channels ran very full, the sound of rushing water keeping time to the excitement pulsing through me to walk these steps, built by the Incas, all the way down to the base of the mountain.

Unless you run down them as some porters do it will take you about two hours to reach the bottom.

This may be hard on the knees!

From Puyopatamarca, you'll be able to see the terraces of Wiñay Huayna photo, and the Urubamba river far below with the hydroelectric power station (seemingly out of place amidst all the splendid reminders of the Inca empire). At the bottom of the steps, you'll find the hostel to stay the night. Take the time to see the many varieties of orchids, explore the ruins here, and marvel at the terraces on the hill. The Incas used every bit of land for agricultural purposes which explains why so many cities and communities are perched on the sides of steep mountains.

Day Four

There is one more pass to cross before reaching Machu Picchu. Most travelers get up very early to hike the three and a half miles dirt trail to Intipunko "Gateway of the Sun" at 2685 m. (8,860 ft). The pleasure of seeing the sun rise with your first glimpse of the domed peak of Huayna Picchu and the lost City of the Incas is something you'll never forget. The trail from here is rocky but easy. You'll have spectacular views along the way.

You'll be rewarded for The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu early since you will have to contend with fewer tourists until they arrive about 10:00 AM. Consult your guidebooks as you tour the magnificent temples, terraced hillsides, irrigation channels, fountains, and elaborate stone work and chambers of unknown purpose. Livestock grazing among the ruins made the sight of the ruins a little more domestic. I remember sitting on an overlook and wondering why the Spaniards never came here.

When more people appear, head for Huayna Picchu, the mountain right above the ruins. At 2727 m. (9,000 ft) it is called the Young Mountain. It's a short, steep climb but you'll be rewarded for your efforts with picture perfect views. If you are not spending the night outside the ruins you can either take a bus down to Aguas Caliente or continue by foot down the trail. It will take about an hour and you may have time to enjoy a thermal hot bath in town before taking the evening train to Cuzco. For a faster trip get off the train in Ollantaytambo and take the colectivo into Cuzco.

Another alternative, if you are pushed by time, is to see Machu Picchu from a helicopter, but this, to me at least, dissipates the spiritual wonder many people feel by walking among the ruins.

No matter how you get to Machu Picchu, remember to treat the ruins with care and respect.

Buen viaje!

Bonnie Hamre
Guide since 1997

Bonnie Hamre
South America Travel Guide

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