The Pantanal

Wildlife Exploring at its Best

If you're headed to South America to see wildlife, you must go to the Pantanal , a huge wilderness region of swamps and marshes - wetlands created by the seasonal flooding of the river Paraguai and its many tributaries. Though it extends into the border areas of Bolivia and Paraguay, the bulk of the area is in the Brazilian states of Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul. Orient yourself with this interactive map from Expedia.

The rivers rise in the rainy season, October to March, flooding the area which was once an inland sea called Xaraés by the first Europeans to come across it. In the dry season, April to late September, the land dries out, leaving only a few waterholes where a fantastic array of wildlife gather.

The Pantanal appeals any time of year, but is during the dry season that most birders, ecologists, and other wildlife fans come to see birds such as the hyacinth blue macaw, jabiru woodstork, toucans, rhea, river otters, iguanas, anacondas, cougars, tapirs, crocodiles called caimans, deer, anteaters, dourado, jau and piranha fish, howler monkeys, capybaras (large rodents) and jaguar.

There are few towns, roads and people living in the Pantanal. It is an area of large fazendas, farms or ranches which may offer guest housing. They may also offer horseback riding or boat tours. Other accommodation choices are pousadas, pesqueiros and hotels. Pesqueiros are fishing camps which usually have fishing equipment and boats to rent. Fishing at Pantanal Basin is a major attraction. There are also the botels, a floating hotel which travelers like for the convenience of being right on the water, but are expensive. You will need reservations at any of these, and they are on the pricey side, but the rates do include meals and transport by boat or plane from towns on the skirts of the Pantanal.

Getting to the Pantanal is most easily accomplished on the Brazilian side. Linhas Aéreas Pantanal, TAM, Vasp, Varig and Transbrasil flights from most major cities to Cuiaba, capital of Mato Grosso, on the northern edge of the Pantanal, (see interactive map from MapQuest) or to Campo Grande, Capital of Mato Grosso de Sul on the southern side. Campo Grande is 1041 km from São Paulo.

From Campo Grande, take the bus or drive to Corumbá, the southern gateway to the Pantanal. The railroad from Santa Cruz, Bolivia crosses the border at Quijarro, near Corumbá on the rio Paraguai, and goes on to Campo Grande and other points east.-

Be aware that Corumbá has a rough reputation for drug traffic, poaching and other criminal activities. Be very cautious if you hire a local guide. From Paraguay, you cross the border at Pedro Juan Caballero into Ponta Poré and then drive to Campo Grande. You may also be able to arrange passage on a river boat from Asunción to Corumbá.

From Cuiaba, you have a choice of routes, Caceres to the west, Barão de Melgaço to the southeast and Poconé to the southwest. The majority of lodgings cluster around the Transpantaneira highway which begins at Poconé, about 100 km from Cuiaba, and runs south to Porto Jofre. You'll find many choices of tours and lodgings such as

• Fazenda Baía Grande
• Pantanal - the Wetlands
• [Refúgio Ecológico Caiman
• Pousada Rio Mutum
• The Pantanal

and others from which you can tour by boat or truck, by foot or by horseback. Depending on your choice of tour and/or accommodations, you'll go budget to luxury. You may drive yourself, but gas stations are far apart. Hitchhiking is an accepted means of transportation on the Transpantaneira but get an early start, so you can see the dawn and the animals gathering for an early morning drink.

The Parque Nacional Pantanal Matogrossense is near Porto Jofre. Here you'll see land and wetlands described as Water Continent and The Pantanal which has a particularly fine overview, plus a list of things to pack. This site also discusses the environmental concerns about the Pantanal.

If you have comments or questions about the Pantanal, please post them on the South America for Visitors Forum.