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Falkland Islands for Visitors
Part 1: Background, What to See

Although many people hadn't heard of the Falkland Islands, or the Islas Malvinas, they became a world headline in early 1982 when Argentine forces invaded the islands in the latest surge of sovereignty issues between Argentina and Great Britain.

Now, however, the Falklands are a becoming a favored destination spot with wildlife conservationists, birders, those who favor unusual locales, military buffs and those who'd like to get away from it all. So, where are the islands?

Falkland Islands map "The Falkland Islands are a group of islands in the south Atlantic. The two main islands, East Falkland and West Falkland, lie 300 miles [480 km] east of the Argentina coast. About 200 smaller islands form a total land area of approximately 4,700 square miles (12,200 square km).

The capital and only town is (Port) Stanley. The government of the Falkland Islands administers the British dependent territories of South Georgia, the South Sandwich Islands, and the Shag and Clerke rocks, lying from 700 to 2,000 miles (1,100 to 3,200 km) to the east and southeast of the Falklands. The total population of the islands in 1991 was estimated at 2100." (Chronicle of the Falklands / Malvinas)

 More of this Feature
• Part 1: Sightseeing
• Part 2: Wildlife
• Part 3: Getting There
 
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Background:

You'll be dividing your time between Stanley on East Falkland, the center of business and government, and the rest of the islands, referred to as "camp." Stanley was founded in 1845, after the islands had been traded back and forth between Argentina, France, and England. It was to be a supply depot on the long sea voyage between Cape Horn and Europe but fell into disrepute when ships putting into port were damaged or scuttled. It was then the shipping point for the wool trade with Great Britain and remains so today. It is also now used by the Asian and European fishing fleets and the center of a conservation effort to preserve and protect the islands wildlife.

Stanley faces north, to take advantage of the sun, and the brightly painted roofs offer a colorful contrast to the surrounding, almost treeless moors. To many, Stanley looks like a bit of England plunked down on a far-away island. It spreads around the harbor, with most of the businesses and government houses within a short distance of each other. Cape Pembroke Lighthouse is a good walk, but worth it for lighthouse buffs to see the recent restorations. Stanley, the only town on the islands, is small, walkable and friendly. There are no traffic lights and no neon signs, but there are plenty of pubs and shops. Be sure to buy some woolen goods, or the stuffed animals representing the local wildlife.

The two main hotels, Malvina House Hotel and Upland Goose Hotel, are here, as are the tour operators and the Falkland Islands Tourist Board offices. Camp is becoming more accommodating to tourism, and there are lodges, cottages for rent, or rooms in private homes.

Falkland Islands Sheep The main industry in camp is raising sheep. Lamb (mutton) and local fish are staple foods. Because of the isolation, the islands grow their own foodstuffs in hydroponic gardens, and do so organically. You'll find fast-food and snack shops, pizza and fish and chips. The better restaurants are in the hotels.

You'll be using the Falkland pound. Visa and Mastercard are widely accepted. There are no ATM's. You'll also see British currency in use.

Things to do and see:

In Stanley, you'll be reminded of the shipping past with a tour around the harbor. The Stanley Harbour Maritime History Trail shows you deserted ships, ships run aground, and many shipwrecks. No doubt the tour will inform you that the Falklands have the highest number of visible shipwrecks in the world. The Falkland Islands Museum has a good display of maritime history.

Christ Church Cathedral is a large brick and stone church built in 1892. The stained glass windows are attractive, and the nearby is the residence of the governors of the island, Government House. Also nearby are the Whalebone Arch which commemorates British rule and Battle of the Falklands Memorial, commemorating the World War I naval battle of December 8, 1914.

The largest event on the islands is Sports Days, held alternately in camp or in Stanley, either on Boxing Day (the day after Christmas) or in late February. These events are a time to get-together, make or renew friendships, compete in horse racing, bull riding and sheep-dog trials. The parties go on for hours. Non-residents are welcome, but make sure you make your reservations for a place to sleep in advance.

In camp, you may learn about sheep raising at a lodge, or visit the wildlife preserves, particularly on Sea Lion and Pebble Islands. You'll find moors, hills, lakes and grasslands. Be careful though. Where you see white grass, even though the ground looks firm, it's not. The coastlines are rocky, rugged and spectacular.

Port Louis, on East Falkland, is the oldest community, founded by the French in 1764. You can see the ruins of several buildings, including the governor's house and the fortress. You can walk from here to Volunteer Beach where you'll see the largest concentration of king penguins. You'll also see southern fur seals and a host of birds. Don't forget your binoculars.

San Carlos is where the British forces came ashore in 1982. Most of the fighting took place south of there in Darwin and Goose Green. You can visit the 1982 battlefields, but follow intructions. There are still unexploded land mines. The minefields are clearly marked and a map of them is available at Town Hall. There are tours which will give you the details. You might see some military activity around their base at Mt. Pleasant, but nothing to be alarmed about.

The war began on April 2, 1982 when Argentine forces invaded. Ownership of the islands has been contested since 1833, and Argentine military leadership thought to bolster their standing at home by attaching the islands. However, the Argentine forces were no match for the British forces and the war ended in May, averting further destruction and fatalities.

West Falkland Island is almost as large as East Falkland, and home to several sheep stations. The sheep station of Port Howard, due to be connected by ferry to East Falkland across Falkland Sound, is the scenic base for hiking and trekking. Again, make sure you have permission to cross private land, and observe the local customs. Close gates after you.

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