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El Seņor de Qoyllur Ritti

By Bonnie Hamre, About.com

Ausangate Peru

Dawn at Ausangate Peru

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The Legend:

The annual June celebrations of El Señor de Qoyllur Ritti come from the friendship that developed between a small boy, Marianito Mayta, and the boy with a very pale complexion whom he met in the mountains in 1870. The pale child appeared cold and asked Marianito to find him some clothes. Marianito had seen clothing like that only in church, so he went to the Bishop of Cuzco for help.

The Bishop, concerned that Marianito might steal vestments from a church, sent a priest to investigate. The priest followed the boy to the sacred Apu, or mountain, of Ausangate, and then to where he saw him enveloped in a shining light. When the priest snatched the child out of the light, he was transformed into a Tayanca tree with the image of Christ in agony. The image of Christ is painted on the rocks.

Marianito was subsequently buried in the rock under the tree.

Growth of a Festival:

In the 1920s, veneration at the spot where the image is on the rocks evolved into a celebration merging ancient rituals, worshiping the Sun god stemming from pre-Inca times, with the Christian faith. The old ceremonies combine worship of the sun with offerings to the apu to protect the worshipers from harm.

A shrine was built at the base of nearby Sinagara mountain, and over time, the veneration became the annual pilgrimage and celebrations of El Señor de Qoyllur Ritti, el Lucero de la Montaña, or the Shining or Snow Star of the Mountain. Today, the Qoyllur Ritti is one of Peru's most revered religious events.

Thousands of pilgrims make the journey to the snowy, cold mountainside to the Sanctuary of Qotlloritti to attend Mass and participate in the events spread over several days.

Schedule of Events:
  • Day 1:
    Beginning at Mahuayani from Cuzco and Tinqui, climb to the Sanctuary of Qoylloritti along the trail marked by crosses. Attend daily Mass in the Sanctuary.
  • Day 2:
    Go to the Alacitas market to buy miniature goods such as trucks, houses, cattle, university titles and others, with money valid only during the Qoyllur Ritti festivity. These miniature possessions represent those things you wish for yourself, and according to legend, will come to pass.
  • Attend the procession of the Lord of Tayancani and the Virgin, and several dancing performances. In the evening, following the spectacular Burning of Castles (wooden edifices destroyed by firecrackers) and the Child’s Dance, ascend the snow-capped mountain and glacier to bring down the crosses to the Sanctuary.

    During the celebrations, Ukukus keep order with sticks, preventing the consumptioon of alcohol, which at this altitude, in winter, could be fatal.

  • Day 3:
    The Night Pilgrimage to Tayancani is a 24 hour procession begins with a Mass, then a six hour walk via Calvario Machucruz, the lagoons in Kumukasa and Alqamarina sectors, to Yanacocha. There, following a short rest, walk to Tayancani and wait for dawn. The sunrise Sun Greeting ceremony is followed by a Blessing in the Sanctuary of Tayancani. This marks the end of the festival.

    Stay in the area to make the trek around Ausangate, or return to Cuszco.

  • What You'll Need:

    Be prepared for cold weather camping. Make arrangements with a tour agency who will provide transportation from Cuzco, tents, equipment, guides, camping gear, meals, and in some cases, horses or mules to carry your personal gear. Tour providers will have horses and/or mules to carry all the camping equipment.

    Getting and Staying There:

    Check flights from your area to Lima, Cuzco or other locations in Peru. You can also browse for hotels and car rentals.

    This hotels in Cuzco can provide the base for your explorations of the area.

    Provide for yourself:
  • A backpack
  • Rain jacket or poncho
  • Strong footwear
  • Warm clothes, including jacket, fleece and sweaters
  • Flashlight and batteries
  • Camera, films and batteries (batteries consume more quickly under cold conditions)
  • Hat or cap to protect you from the changeable weather
  • Sun block
  • Toilet paper
  • Snacks
  • Non-disposable canteen and sterilizing tablets (ie. Micropur)
  • Cash in soles and/or US$
  • Optional: walking sticks or poles

    If you make the trip to celebrate El Señor de Qoyllur Ritti, share your experiences on the South America for Visitors Forum.

    Buen viaje!

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