About's Spanish Language Guide
Taxis, taxis, taxis everywhere.
Above all else, they quickly became my main impression of Lima during a recent visit to the Peruvian capital.
One popular guidebook says that one out of seven cars in Lima is registered as a taxi, and that figure very well could be an understatement. Step out of any site popular with tourists and you'll be inundated instantly with taxistas offering their services. The situation isn't much different on the side streets; if you're looking for a ride, you'll have no difficulty finding one.
That's part of the good news for tourists visiting Lima. The other good news is that the rides are downright cheap by U.S. standards. A ride of a mile or so shouldn't cost you over a dollar; the most expensive rides are those between the somewhat remote airport and the wealthier suburbs can be had for about $10 without much bargaining (perhaps more if you're leaving from the airport), not much for a 45-minute trip. Just be sure to settle on a price before you get in (basic Spanish) helps), because the taxis are unmetered. The low prices are product of Peru's struggling economy, which has forced even professionals to drive taxis as a source of income.
The bad news for tourists, at least those who can see, is that riding a Lima taxi is more frightening than any amusement park ride. Few have seat belts, and traffic laws appear to be unenforced. It isn't uncommon for two-lane streets to become de facto four-lane highways as horns-a-honking taxis pass and crowd each other.
At least the preponderance of taxis makes it easy to get around. For many visitors, Lima isn't much more than a place to fly in and out of on the way to the ruins of Macchu Piccu or some other site. And while Lima can be depressing city - it has enormous slums, and smog and low clouds make it impossible most of the time to see the Andean foothills that border the city - there are some sites worth seeing.
Two sites in particular stand out: The cathedral on the Plaza de Armas (the central city square) is an excellent example of 16th-century architecture. Be sure to take one of the guided tours available in either Spanish or English to get a good background on Peru's rich history. The other is the Museo de Oro, a private collection of pre-Columbian artifacts, precious-metal items, weapons and textiles in the suburb of Monterrico. The museum, which has exhibited materials throughout the world, attracts an international audience.
Our only disappointment in Lima was the Museo de la Nación, which came across as a museum that doesn't know why it exists. It wasn't worth the token admission price.
If you're looking for a place to stay in Lima, I'd suggest a hotel or guest house (bed and breakfast) in one of the suburbs. Unless you don't mind spending extra, avoid the U.S. chain hotels; comfortable lodging can easily be found at guest houses and smaller hotels for under $50 per night. We stayed at, and would highly recommend, the Inkawasi guest house in Miraflores. Like some other guest houses in that region, it is safe, clean and close to both Peruvian and American-style restaurants (where you'll pay only slightly less than American-style prices). The owner speaks fluent English, and you can make arrangements to be picked up at the airport.
Rich and poor, tacky and majestic, attractive and filthy: Lima, like many Latin American cities, is a study in contrasts. Whether you're looking for the "genuine" Peru or want to view the influence in U.S. popular culture, you can do so in Lima. Just be sure to hang on tight and close your eyes as you ride the taxis.
