Nustahispanan (also known as Yupac Rumi, White rock) looms up before us, a huge rock about eight metres high covered with mysterious notches. Desecrated by Augustininan priests, the purpose of this mysterious shrine has been lost through the centuries. All agree it holy, and my Peruvian friends theorize the stone had an important role for Inca virgins, whereby their purity was tested.
My friends are mestizos–they have the blood of the Spanish conquistadors running in their veins, but they are also descendants of the Incas, and their parents speak Quechua, the Inca language. Like many young Peruvians they don’t speak this language, though they do understand it.
In the conquest of the Inca Empire much important knowledge was lost, and these days young people seem detached from their heritage. Few venture into the jungle as we have on this day, simply because they don’t have the money or the time for tourism.
Close to Nustahispanan we stumble upon Inca agricultural terracing and waterways still in use. The craftsmanship of the Incas is extraordinary - their stonework precise, and durable yet also in harmony with nature.
The citadel of Vitcos (known nowadays as Rosaspatas) is situated up on a high bluff with outstanding views of the Vilcabamba River Valley, which the conquistadors followed to the last city of the Incas.
Vitcos has been reduced to several buildings, partially reconstructed using the original stones. Manco Inca met his end in this city, not on the field of battle but when playing quoits, betrayed by his guests, renegade Spaniards to whom he had given sanctuary.
Each of the great Inca cities were linked by trails and the tourist need only want to get off the beaten track to enjoy some awesome hiking experiences – from here we could walk to the last city of the Incas, or the better known Machu Picchu.
Unfortunately we aren’t hiking further and decide to hitch. With high probability that there would be no more vehicles that night we climbed in to a truck distributing Cristal beer, one of the more popular beverages.
A campesino (farmer) woman dressed in traditional voluminous skirts and her daughter join us in the back of the truck and darkness finds us surrounded by crates of bottles.
With insufficient space to sit we lay on our backs on crates of empty beer bottles. As the small truck forded rivers and navigated the jungle road, we flew into the air, landing on our backs on the bottles. My friends soundly slept, airborne much of the time but seemingly oblivious to the pain while the night dragged on.
Bruised by beer bottles, my back looked like it had been attacked by an octopus, but this hiking experience had transcended adventure. I had set out to learn more about the Inca people and their lost cities of gold, but really learnt more about life for the average Peruvian.
Thanks to Ariana Svenson of APUS PERU Adventure Trekking Specialists, for her contribution and photos.
